El Chalten - a different pioneer
Hidden in the shadow and protection of the lee side of a huge rôche moutonnée sits the home of the Danish pioneer Andreas Madsen and just uphill slightly is the cemetery of his family. It is the only cemetery in El Chalten and the only one in the Parque Nacional de los Glaciares.
Today, the wind is calm and blows little - but this is extremely rare in savage deep Patagonia. It is the height of summer and a t-shirt is just about bearable but still brave.
The protective shadow of the hill behind us creates a wind block and microclimate in this tough valley, where, normally, hurricane force icy winds tear down the Valley from the Southern Patagonian ice sheet. Just 5km away lies the third largest ice cap on our planet and represents one of the world's last unknown wilderness areas.
The days are long here this far South, it is twilight until 11pm and light again at 5am. As one approaches the house, the land becomes greener and it becomes obvious just how much love and care and above all else, hardship has gone into creating this oasis in this most inhospitable place.
The story of Andreas Madson is one of pure inspiration and it would only serve as a great injustice to even try to begin to relate it here - he wrote three books on it. But, it is a truly remarkable place.
Today, the wind is calm and blows little - but this is extremely rare in savage deep Patagonia. It is the height of summer and a t-shirt is just about bearable but still brave.
The protective shadow of the hill behind us creates a wind block and microclimate in this tough valley, where, normally, hurricane force icy winds tear down the Valley from the Southern Patagonian ice sheet. Just 5km away lies the third largest ice cap on our planet and represents one of the world's last unknown wilderness areas.
The days are long here this far South, it is twilight until 11pm and light again at 5am. As one approaches the house, the land becomes greener and it becomes obvious just how much love and care and above all else, hardship has gone into creating this oasis in this most inhospitable place.
The story of Andreas Madson is one of pure inspiration and it would only serve as a great injustice to even try to begin to relate it here - he wrote three books on it. But, it is a truly remarkable place.
My bus pulls away and we tear down the road South, connecting to the Ruta 40 once more. I glance back one more time to catch a glimpse of Fitz Roy as its precipitous cliff faces slice up through the sky, cutting through the clouds that try to envelop it.
La Patagonia Vieja, jueves el 3 de enero 2019
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